...of The Idiot & The Oddity...
The evening was soft and blue. From darkening waves and exotic echoes, the valley shadows dreamed. Over on the massif itself, the scattering of occasional lights and the tinkling of distant goat bells filled the evening with a deep contentment. I stood at the doorway to the mayor's house and inhaled the living air. Not twenty paces in front of me, unaware I was there, a teenage girl stood crooning counterpoint to the chime of the basilica bells. When the music ended, she lifted her face, inhaled, and closed her eyes. To her spontaneous applause the sun bowed and made a graceful exit from the stage. The day was gone. In one smooth caress, she ran her fingers through her waist-length hair, right down her back and into the pockets of her jeans. One solitary star sent a tender twinkle of hope.
I don't know if it was the reflections in the sea, or the lights from passing ships, or maybe the peaceful scattering of tables and chairs in the street, or the girl, or the mountains, the bells, or all of it all together, but that was the evening Sophi stood before me, showed me her face and stole me away.
Apart from the clang of goat bells, the lowing of cattle and the barking of a distant argument, the Sophian dusk is still. Its sky is orange fading into purple night. The widest path snakes through the village before it loses interest, narrows and fades into sand. Moths dance around the lone light bulb. Bats swoop and dive. Cicadas play maracas. Dogs and children howl in the dark. Villagers sit and chatter in the lengthening shadows. They tilt their heads and smile in my direction. I stroll, accepted, mesmerised by the silence and the fragrance and the crunch beneath my feet, enchanted by the panoramic visions of the far-flung islets floating above the utterly violet sea in crystal clear illusion.
At the turning area in the light from an old van and a bulb in a shed, fifteen or so fishermen are concentrating hard, straightening coloured nets or winding spiky lines around their baskets with bare hands. I see a cafe table and sit down. There's a jacket on another chair and the table is scattered with hooks, some twine and a knife. Across the way, a grey Tom begs for food, as it should. Fishermen on a mountaintop? Who would believe it? The men see me sitting there and carry on working. I close my eyes for a moment in the perfect diamond peace. There's a rumble coming closer and when I look up, I see an approaching tractor. It can't get past my table so I stand, lift the table back a few feet. The driver touches his forehead, and continues. One of the fishermen comes to the table, excuses the mess, and puts down a glass of water and says, "For you. On the house." He bows, they laugh and he goes back to work.

Along the road out of town, I climb for about half an hour to where the bulldozers had scraped out the old rock to make the new road, and from there look back at the lights of Sophi - a tender pattern of sparks with gaps where mountain homes had been. But what a darkness there would be if all the lights went out.
The Idiot & The Oddity
...reading is a wonderful way to travel...
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